Overnight Brisket, Sunrise Smoke: Inside Day Three at Family Reunion

But easily, my favorite. And the best part? I get to wake up and do it all again tomorrow.

Day Three didn’t start at sunrise. It started sometime after midnight, when most folks were tucked in and resting up. For me, it was just a continuation of Day Two, out by the smoker, fire still going, skies finally clear after the storm, and Chris and Sam posted up beside me. They're part of Rodney’s team, and they had their own marathon underway, two 230-pound hogs to slow roast through the night.

This wasn’t my first overnight cook with these guys, and it won’t be my last. There’s a rhythm to it now. The laughter, the old stories, the slipping through mud trails left behind by the day’s downpour. We eventually made our way to the folding chairs, sat down, and let the flames do their thing while music blared from Rodney’s Turtlebox speaker. Side note, not an ad, but if you cook outside long enough, get yourself one. Nearly indestructible and always the vibe.

People often think these overnight sessions are about babysitting fire. But the truth is, the fire’s just part of it. You're constantly checking the meat. Tipping the briskets so moisture doesn’t pool and ruin the bark. Rotating for even heat. Making small adjustments so the end result sings. Even if it’s going to be chopped fine, like today’s brisket, that attention still matters. Texture, tenderness, even temperature, those little things add up.

Sometime just before sunrise, I pulled the briskets. They’d reached that point, the one you feel more than measure. I offloaded them just as the first streaks of sun rose over the rolling hills of Middleburg. That’s a moment you don’t forget. There’s something incredibly rewarding about knowing you’ve put in a full day's work before most people even open their eyes.

With the brisket loaded into warmers, I left instructions for the team: get them to the kitchen once the chefs start arriving. Meanwhile, our coleslaw was coming together, a fire-roasted mango slaw, meant to sit on top of our dish: smoked chopped jerk brisket, served on a tallow-roasted crostini. It’s a plate with layers. Sweet, heat, fat, crunch. Balanced, but bold.

I’ll never call myself a chef, I’m a pitmaster. That’s the lane I hold. But when you’re cooking alongside James Beard winners and internationally renowned talent, you step your game up, not out of competition, but out of respect. Events like this make you think harder about the dish, the details, the story you’re trying to tell on the plate.

After a quick catnap (and I mean quick), it was go-time. Day Three is the official kick-off to the Family Reunion cookout, the barbecue portion of the weekend, and arguably the most anticipated. Energy has to be high. Execution has to be tight. And if you’re lucky, the weather plays nice.

I had extra hands on deck, including a young culinary student named Simone. New to the game but full of curiosity. She worked alongside Erica to prep sides, and it didn’t take long to see she was soaking up everything. If she stays the course, I can see her headlining events like this down the line. Some folks just have that spark.

As service crept closer, the chopping began. Briskets, one after another. Carefully minced, the right mix of fatty and lean. There’s a tempo to it, someone leads, someone replenishes pans, others plate. Everyone has a role, and everyone matters. You can’t do this alone. It takes a village. I had mine, and they showed up strong.

Then the gates opened. Guests poured in. The band struck up. You could feel it, the buzz of anticipation, the joy of something about to begin. We weren’t the only ones on deck. Pops was slinging smoked oxtail with mac and cheese. Rodney’s crew had whole hog and watermelon salad. Bryan Furman and his family served ribs and beans, slow-cooked with love. The air was thick with smoke, soul, and satisfaction.

Service flew by in a blur, as it always does when you’re feeding over 1,200 people. You don’t realize how fast time moves until you're on your fifth brisket tray, still waving to familiar faces in the crowd. You rely on your team. You trust your prep. And you remember why you do this.

With bellies full and plates cleaned, it was time for the afterglow, the official after-party for Family Reunion. A chance to dance off the food, reconnect, and celebrate. Last year’s surprise performer was Tweet. This year? Mario. Introduced by Kwame, doing his best rendition of one of Mario’s hits before the real deal stepped out and took the stage. He lit it up. Handed out roses, sang to the crowd, made it personal.

And after all that? The night still wasn’t over.

That’s the beauty of staying on the grounds, because when you do, the magic lingers. Out on the back patio: chess matches. On the lawn: double-dutch tournaments. Around the fire pit: conversation, music, drinks, cigars, and reflection.

Yes, it was the longest day. But easily, my favorite. And the best part? I get to wake up and do it all again tomorrow.